Technical Notes: C470 | C42 | C400 | C380/387/390 | C38 | C36 | C350 | C34 | C320 | C310 | C30/309 | C28 | C27/270 | C26 | C25/250 & Capri 25 | C18 | C15 | Capri 14.2


 

 

Volume 26, Number 3, August 2008

(This is only a fraction of the Technical content found in each issue of mainsheet. To read it all, subscribe to Catalina Mainsheet.)

Catalina 470 Technical Editor Jim Wohlleber

No column this issue. Comments and/or questions for next issue? Contact your Tech Editor today.

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Catalina 42 Technical Editor Garry Willis

New Boat Owner Questions
As the owner of a new 2007 Catalina 42 which I purchased this past August [I moved up from a Hunter 36] you can bet I have a number of questions about her and was happy to learn you are the “go to person” with questions. The dealer, Coneys Marine in Long Island and Kent Nelson at the factory have been nothing short of super too.

To begin with I am a seasoned boat owner and sailor. Although Millipede is the first Catalina I have owned, it is our 12th boat over a 40 year period. . . I realize and do not expect any boat to be flawless even if it is new and right out of the box like mine was. There are a few little issues that need answers though:
...

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Catalina 400 Technical Editor Brian Mistrot

No column this issue. Comments and/or questions for next issue? Contact your Tech Editor today

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Catalina 380/397/390 Technical Editor Warren Elliott

Simple Repair Eliminates Dismasting Possibility
I don’t mean to worry our C380 captains-the chances are pretty remote for a dismasting-but one of our fleet did suffer this “fate”, so I thought some relevant info would be helpful to at least a few of our members.

The particular unhappy event took place with winds gusting to 30+ knots.. Before sailing that day, the rig appeared normal per the captain’s brief check. Early conditions had winds in the low 20’s, so the C380, which had a Z-Spar tall rig, was reefed accordingly. Then, just after coming about, the mast folded to port/aft about 10 feet above the deck. Luckily, no one was hurt
...

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Catalina 38 Technical Editor Tom Troncalli

Electrics for Dummies
As modern sailors, even we need to know something about electricity. This article is not supposed to be an exhaustive lesson on electricity but some ideas about how to maximize the electrical efficiencies on our boats.

The two types of electricity we use on board are called Direct Current and Alternating Current. Direct Current (DC) as our batteries produce means the current goes in one direction only. Alternating Current (AC) means that the current reverses direction in a circuit at regular intervals, 60 cycles per second for shore power AC. Both AC and DC are similar in many ways and dissimilar in other ways...

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Catalina 36 Technical Editors
MK I Hulls: Glenn “Chooch” Jewell
MK II Hulls: Tom Senator

Stuffing box Flax packing size
I was thinking about ordering the Gore packing but am not sure on the right size. I hear, in this thread, that we should be using 3/16" but http://www.emarineinc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html web site shows a 1" prop shaft, which I also hear is what I have, takes ¼" as the correct size packing. Inquiring minds want to know… Roger O’Malley, High Sea Era #2079

Roger, I have seen both -- the shaft size is 1" -- but I have heard people say they have used flax packing that was either 3/16" or 1/4". On page 45-46 of the Catalina 36MKII manual it says to use 3/16 x 3/16 packing and you should get 3 of them in your stuffing box. That is probably correct as I used 1/4" (probably as per the info from the site below) and while it is working fine I could only get 2 rings in there. So maybe 3/16" is correct. Though, I have heard that the newer C36 user manuals even said that the packing should be 1/4" so I think both could be used effectively...

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Catalina 350 Technical Editor Skip Penizotto

C350 Maintenance Website
When we purchased our Catalina 350 in January, 2004 I was determined to keep her maintained per the manuals. There were systems I never had on a boat before, and this was my first diesel engine. So I went through the manuals and started highlighting all the maintenance requirements. Then I copied them into a spreadsheet to organize them better. By going through this process I learned a lot about the boat and became familiar with the various systems and components.
Once I had this maintenance list together I could easily see everything that had to be done without searching through the manuals every time. That was great, but as a computer hobbyist (geek) I couldn’t just settle for a simple list. So I scanned the manuals into the computer, and added hyperlinks back to the manuals and manufacturer websites so all the information available would be just a click away. The next obvious step was to publish the creation for other C350 owners to use, which I did in March 2005. The link to the latest version is on the C350IA home page at www.Catalina350.net...

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Catalina 34 Technical Editor Mike Vaccaro

Engine Room Ramblings
I’m consistently amazed at how much discussion occurs regarding the maintenance of the auxiliary propulsion systems on our boats. It must mean we spend a lot of time under power and, of course, are largely dependent upon the auxiliary when we depart and arrive at the marina. The following are some random thoughts regarding the care and feeding of this important bit of machinery.

Mounting the Breather Tube to the Stock Air Intake
There has been some discussion on the web as of late about adding a breather tube to circulate crankcase air to the intake to reduce diesel smell in the cabin. The system in our boat uses a 1/2" O.D. brass elbow mounted to the intake cover using two thin brass jamb nuts. These nuts were obtained from a local hardware store and are actually lamp hardware. Red Locktite is used to ensure that the nuts don’t back-off as the result of engine vibration. The reusable metal filter in the intake would act as a “catcher’s mitt” in the unlikely event a nut loosened, preventing ingestion into the intake manifold...

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Catalina 320 Association Editor Karl Mielenhausen

Shake, Rattle, and Roll
Here’s an interesting story but not a good example of the usually good troubleshooting skills I pride myself on having...
The last couple of times I’ve been out, I noticed a sort of rattling under power but only at one specific rpm. The usually trusty, Yanmar 3GM was a little rougher at idle (in gear) also.

It sounded like I had caught a fishing line and the lure was whacking against the hull as the prop turned. The noise was louder in the cockpit, but barely noticeable in the aft cabin. Since it only occurred at 2000 (+/- 50) rpm, I was ignoring it...

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Catalina 310 Technical Editor Bob James

Unattractive Stair Treads
We bought Hamingja (hull #310) new 2 1/2 years ago and each year since, when we attend various boat shows, we come away certain we made the right choice in choosing a Catalina 310. The only gripe we’ve both had related to the companionway stair treads which, at least on Hamingja, were an unattractive vinyl affair of non-descript color that stained easily and continually slid out of place when exposed to the hot Florida sun. At the shows, my wife would always stare with envy at the sharp-looking wooden steps leading below decks on so many of the other boats...

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Tech Talk with Catalina 30/309 (edited by Max Munger)

Portlights.
This procedure is based on my experience refurbishing the leaking port lights on Rag Doll a 1976 Catalina 30. Later models may be somewhat different.

Removing the windows is easy – remove the screws from the interior aluminum frame and push the window out. You may have to overcome various thicknesses of silicon or such that was used to seal the window over the years.

In my case, some of these screws were aluminum and broke off. In all cases there was enough of a stub to grab with a vise grips. I replaced them all with stainless screws.
This is a good opportunity to take care of cleaning the openings. Scrape off all the failed sealer and tend to areas of the cabin trunk that may have become delaminated or otherwise water damaged...

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Catalina 28 Technical Editor Garry Hebert

Cord-Keeper
When my shore power cord was stolen not long ago, I set about trying to devise some way to keep my replacement cord from also going missing. My gangway is ungated, lightly visited, with no live-aboards, and I feared that the miscreants would know I’d buy a new cord and they’d revisit the scene of the crime in a few days to swipe the new cord.

Here was my challenge: I didn’t want to permanently attach the cord to the dock. I have only the one cord and I need to take it with me when we visit other harbors. I wanted some way to attach it to the boat itself, and it needed to be simple, effective, quick and cheap...

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Catalina 27/270
Technical Editor C27 John Ebell

Technical Editor C270 Phil Agur

Ice Box
This Issue should find everyone in cruise and race mode and I hope everyone is enjoying using their Catalina 27. I have a few new items that you may find helpful on the race course and some that will make the boat nicer to cruise too.

Whether you race or cruise you use the boat’s ice box. What always frustrated me with my boat (aft galley) is when you try and open the ice box lid, it can only open half way (see picture 1). This is because of the slider cabinet mounted directly overhead. I can not claim credit for this, but I saw how someone had modified their lid and it instantly made the ice box much easier to get into. This modification is easily accomplished by cutting one half of the lid in half again and adding hinges to the underside. This allows the lid to articulate and open in a folding manner clearing the cabinet above. (see picture 2) I always had to remove the whole lid to get into my chest and that lets in hot air and uses ice faster. This helps save ice as well as making it easier to reach your favorite beverage...

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Capri 26 Technical Editor Bob Unkel

Cutlass Bearing Replacement
Over the years I have received several questions concerning Cutlass Bearing replacement. The latest came from Don Miller who sails Rumrunner Capri 26 hull 205 on Lake Keowee in South Carolina. Don was renting a trailer and getting organized to make the change.

Prop Removal
You need to either remove the Prop or the Rudder to get the shaft past the Rudder. Although the Rudder is heavy, approximately 50-60lbs, if you remove the rudder the Shaft and Prop can be removed as an assembly. To remove the Prop you will need a puller and I would suggest soaking the joint with some good penetrating oil to help the process. If it is still sticking a small amount of heat on the hub of the prop can help the process...

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Capri 25 Technical Editor Chris McKillip
Catalina 25 Guest Technical Editor Frank Hopper
Catalina 250 Technical Editor Randy Kold

Improved Portable Gas Can Safety For Boats with Outboards
For years I have struggled with the constant maintenance of my 9.9 Outboard gas can on my Catalina 25. Some of the issues include, rust rings left on my fiberglass from condensation rust and long lay-up times of non use which can lead to leaking metal gas tanks. I have found that leaks occur where the manufactures seams expand and contract in the summer heat and allow for weakening of theses seams, and finally, overall rusty bottoms from constant exposure to the elements. I fortunately sail on fresh water lakes, but I can imagine an even harsher environment on salt water. Additionally, on many boats (not just sailboats alone) constant bouncing, tacking and shifting of weight may cause your gas tank to slide uncontrollably, which can also damage the sides and bottoms.

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Catalina 22 Technical Editor Sharon and Philip Merlier

No column this issue. Comments and/or questions for next issue? Contact your Tech Editor today.

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Catalina 18 Technical Editor Erik Van Renselaar

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Catalina 16 Technical Editor Richard Ede

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Catalina 15 Technical Editor Paul Vance

No column this issue. Comments and/or questions for next issue? Contact your Tech Editor today.

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Capri 14.2 Association Editor Ed Jones

Lost Donuts
Most late model (and some older) Capri 14.2s use a centerboard stopper consisting of a fiberglass rod that sticks out on each side of the top of the board. This has little rubber “donuts” on the ends to cushion the impact when the board is dropped down.

Often the donuts come unglued and end up rolling around the cockpit floor and/or disappearing down the slot. Replacements can be bought from Catalina, but mama-mia, such a hassle. And then the new ones never seem to stay on, no matter what kind of miracle glue is used. Another problem is that sometimes the fiberglass pin breaks.
Tired of this, I decided to undertake the ultimate cure. I bought a 3” X 3/8” stainless bolt and a locknut. After removing the fiberglass pin (a few gentle taps with a hammer) I inserted the bolt with a donut on each end. It turned out that washers weren’t needed, as the head of the bolt and the locknut hold the donuts in place very nicely. No more lost donuts!..

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